As I read the beginning of your post, it sounded a lot like PSU failure. Many PSUs have 2 power supplies internally: A 5v one that runs all the time (this one is functioning and turned on the lights on the back of your motherboard when you switched on the power). The other one is the big one that powers the computer; it has to be told to turn on. If you're getting no response at all, this one is not turning on. Something could be wrong with the PSU so that it is ignoring the "on" signal, or with the motherboard, so that it is not giving the "on" signal.
However, then I got to the part about stray voltage. This could be a major problem. The whole computer case should be at ground potential; failure to be at ground potential could potentially blow the motherboard if some other device grounds the computer via one (or more) of the I/O ports. If your computer is not getting grounded, there is a wiring/ground fault somewhere (perhaps in the house/building wiring, or wall-outlet, or power-strip) that needs to be fixed. Please don't play with shocking yourself; if this is a European 220v system (the socket on the back of the power supply looks unusual to me), the voltage could easily get lethal-and you're not accomplishing anything by trying to "discharge" the voltage.
If you're savvy, you can test the power supply yourself. Disconnect the power from the PSU, and wait for all lights on the motherboard to go out. Disconnect the power supply from the motherboard, disks, and video cards (if applicable). Find the green wire in the 24 pin ATX connector that went into the motherboard (that's the big connector with all the muli-colored wires). Get a short wire, and poke one end into the hole that the green wire goes to. Now you need to find the correct orientation: In a line, there should be a green wire (you found this one already), then a black wire, a blue wire (or an empty hole) and an orange/brown wire. If you can't find this sequence of wires, you should probably terminate the experiment. If you were successful finding this sequence, poke the other end of your wire in the hole for the black wire that you found right next to the green wire. Reconnect power to the PSU and turn it on. If the PSU is functioning, it will turn on (its internal fan should start spinning). If nothing happens and you followed the instructions carefully, the PSU is probably dead. Wait a minute after disconnecting power from the PSU before you start hooking things back up to your computer. You can read someone else's description of how to test a power supply here. However, you need to get the ground fault fixed before you do this procedure; we don't want any stray charge damaging your computer as you touch components. When reconnecting devices, be careful with the floppy drive connector (if your computer even has one); it is sometimes easy to plug the connector offset by one pin, so make sure that you plug it in so that all four pins are inside of the power connector (nothing hanging out on one side).
I hope that wasn't too complicated!

P.S. I'm assuming that you have a ground fault because it would be astounding for the handle on the PSU not to be connected to the grounded computer case; but, just to make sure, do you get the same shock if you touch bare metal anywhere else on the computer?

 

try booting pc with out the cards in it to see if it post. if it still does not work try booting with a diffrent psu again with out the cards to see if it post .

 

1500 watts for a 3 way setup wow overkill

It does sound like you PSU is dead but i cant say for sure

Also the EVGA PSU´s has not been that well received by reviewers

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Techie007

As I read the beginning of your post, it sounded a lot like PSU failure. Many PSUs have 2 power supplies internally: A 5v one that runs all the time (this one is functioning and turned on the lights on the back of your motherboard when you switched on the power). The other one is the big one that powers the computer; it has to be told to turn on. If you're getting no response at all, this one is not turning on. Something could be wrong with the PSU so that it is ignoring the "on" signal, or with the motherboard, so that it is not giving the "on" signal.
However, then I got to the part about stray voltage. This could be a major problem. The whole computer case should be at ground potential; failure to be at ground potential could potentially blow the motherboard if some other device grounds the computer via one (or more) of the I/O ports. If your computer is not getting grounded, there is a wiring/ground fault somewhere (perhaps in the house/building wiring, or wall-outlet, or power-strip) that needs to be fixed. Please don't play with shocking yourself; if this is a European 220v system (the socket on the back of the power supply looks unusual to me), the voltage could easily get lethal-and you're not accomplishing anything by trying to "discharge" the voltage.
If you're savvy, you can test the power supply yourself. Disconnect the power from the PSU, and wait for all lights on the motherboard to go out. Disconnect the power supply from the motherboard, disks, and video cards (if applicable). Find the green wire in the 24 pin ATX connector that went into the motherboard (that's the big connector with all the muli-colored wires). Get a short wire, and poke one end into the hole that the green wire goes to. Now you need to find the correct orientation: In a line, there should be a green wire (you found this one already), then a black wire, a blue wire (or an empty hole) and an orange/brown wire. If you can't find this sequence of wires, you should probably terminate the experiment. If you were successful finding this sequence, poke the other end of your wire in the hole for the black wire that you found right next to the green wire. Reconnect power to the PSU and turn it on. If the PSU is functioning, it will turn on (its internal fan should start spinning). If nothing happens and you followed the instructions carefully, the PSU is probably dead. Wait a minute after disconnecting power from the PSU before you start hooking things back up to your computer. You can read someone else's description of how to test a power supply here. However, you need to get the ground fault fixed before you do this procedure; we don't want any stray charge damaging your computer as you touch components. When reconnecting devices, be careful with the floppy drive connector (if your computer even has one); it is sometimes easy to plug the connector offset by one pin, so make sure that you plug it in so that all four pins are inside of the power connector (nothing hanging out on one side).
I hope that wasn't too complicated!

P.S. I'm assuming that you have a ground fault because it would be astounding for the handle on the PSU not to be connected to the grounded computer case; but, just to make sure, do you get the same shock if you touch bare metal anywhere else on the computer?

Yes, both the handle of the PSU and the metal handle of the case felt that they both had the same charge.
Also, The first time i touched it i noticed the charge , but it didn't feel leathal.
Any way , I will try to test the PSU to see if it is a PSU issue or not.
But i will try to find a more specific guide to do this.
Any way thanks for your time.
Quote:

Originally Posted by Rustynails

try booting pc with out the cards in it to see if it post. if it still does not work try booting with a diffrent psu again with out the cards to see if it post .

probably after i check the PSU first.
Quote:

Originally Posted by shilka

1500 watts for a 3 way setup wow overkill

It does sound like you PSU is dead but i cant say for sure

Also the EVGA PSU´s has not been that well received by reviewers

on some calculator , adding the fans i found out that i might actually need more.
Also , hopefully that shall be enough when i upgrade to watercooling.

 

I have this same PSU, did you check your dip switch settings? One of the dip switches may have been moved, possibly to the 230v position rather than 115v position.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by num3ers

I have this same PSU, did you check your dip switch settings? One of the dip switches may have been moved, possibly to the 230v position rather than 115v position.

http://www.evga.com/support/manuals/files/120-PG-1500.pdf
3 and 4 are ON.
I do not understand why 5 is not on as well.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by FreeElectron

http://www.evga.com/support/manuals/files/120-PG-1500.pdf
3 and 4 are ON.
I do not understand why 5 is not on as well.

tested 3 4 5 are on.
Nothing.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Techie007

As I read the beginning of your post, it sounded a lot like PSU failure. Many PSUs have 2 power supplies internally: A 5v one that runs all the time (this one is functioning and turned on the lights on the back of your motherboard when you switched on the power). The other one is the big one that powers the computer; it has to be told to turn on. If you're getting no response at all, this one is not turning on. Something could be wrong with the PSU so that it is ignoring the "on" signal, or with the motherboard, so that it is not giving the "on" signal.
However, then I got to the part about stray voltage. This could be a major problem. The whole computer case should be at ground potential; failure to be at ground potential could potentially blow the motherboard if some other device grounds the computer via one (or more) of the I/O ports. If your computer is not getting grounded, there is a wiring/ground fault somewhere (perhaps in the house/building wiring, or wall-outlet, or power-strip) that needs to be fixed. Please don't play with shocking yourself; if this is a European 220v system (the socket on the back of the power supply looks unusual to me), the voltage could easily get lethal-and you're not accomplishing anything by trying to "discharge" the voltage.
If you're savvy, you can test the power supply yourself. Disconnect the power from the PSU, and wait for all lights on the motherboard to go out. Disconnect the power supply from the motherboard, disks, and video cards (if applicable). Find the green wire in the 24 pin ATX connector that went into the motherboard (that's the big connector with all the muli-colored wires). Get a short wire, and poke one end into the hole that the green wire goes to. Now you need to find the correct orientation: In a line, there should be a green wire (you found this one already), then a black wire, a blue wire (or an empty hole) and an orange/brown wire. If you can't find this sequence of wires, you should probably terminate the experiment. If you were successful finding this sequence, poke the other end of your wire in the hole for the black wire that you found right next to the green wire. Reconnect power to the PSU and turn it on. If the PSU is functioning, it will turn on (its internal fan should start spinning). If nothing happens and you followed the instructions carefully, the PSU is probably dead. Wait a minute after disconnecting power from the PSU before you start hooking things back up to your computer. You can read someone else's description of how to test a power supply here. However, you need to get the ground fault fixed before you do this procedure; we don't want any stray charge damaging your computer as you touch components. When reconnecting devices, be careful with the floppy drive connector (if your computer even has one); it is sometimes easy to plug the connector offset by one pin, so make sure that you plug it in so that all four pins are inside of the power connector (nothing hanging out on one side).
I hope that wasn't too complicated!

P.S. I'm assuming that you have a ground fault because it would be astounding for the handle on the PSU not to be connected to the grounded computer case; but, just to make sure, do you get the same shock if you touch bare metal anywhere else on the computer?

According to
How To Manually Test a Power Supply With a Multimeter

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Read http://pcsupport.about.com/od/safetyconsiderations/qt/safety_tips.htmImportant PC Repair Safety Tips[/URL]

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Never Service the Non-Serviceable
When you come across labels that say "No serviceable components inside" don't take it as a challenge or even a suggestion. This is a serious statement.

. Manually testing a power supply involves working closely with high voltage electricity.

Important: Do not skip this step! Safety should be your primary concern during a power supply test and there are several points you should be aware of before starting this process.

EVGA SuperNOVA NEX1500 Product manual

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Safety Information
Thank you for purchasing an EVGA NEX-1500 CLASSIFIED power supply. The NEX-1500 CLASSIFIED is a pre
-
mium quality power supply intended to meet the needs of the most demanding enthusiast systems. Designed with
enthusiast needs in mind the NEX series is the best choice to power next generation systems.
This manual will cover important information regarding the specifications, installation, features, and operations of
your EVGA NEX-1500 CLASSIFIED power supply.
WARNING:
This unit has no user-serviceable parts inside. Opening the casing presents a risk of electrocution and
will void the warranty. EVGA will not be responsible for any result of improper use, use for which the product was
not intended, or use inconsistent with the warranty terms (available for review at
www.evga.com/support/warranty/
) and this manual (also available at
www.evga.com/support/manuals/
).

I am not sure if i shall proceed or not.

 

um, did you check the pins for the case switch? they may have come loose.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fieldsweeper

um, did you check the pins for the case switch? they may have come loose.

I have a rampage IV extreme.
This motherboard has a power on Switch Asus Rampage IV Extreme product manual
I tested to power on using this button , but nothing also.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by FreeElectron

According to
How To Manually Test a Power Supply With a Multimeter

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Read http://pcsupport.about.com/od/safetyconsiderations/qt/safety_tips.htmImportant PC Repair Safety Tips[/URL]

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Never Service the Non-Serviceable
When you come across labels that say "No serviceable components inside" don't take it as a challenge or even a suggestion. This is a serious statement.

. Manually testing a power supply involves working closely with high voltage electricity.

Important: Do not skip this step! Safety should be your primary concern during a power supply test and there are several points you should be aware of before starting this process.

EVGA SuperNOVA NEX1500 Product manual

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Safety Information
Thank you for purchasing an EVGA NEX-1500 CLASSIFIED power supply. The NEX-1500 CLASSIFIED is a pre
-
mium quality power supply intended to meet the needs of the most demanding enthusiast systems. Designed with
enthusiast needs in mind the NEX series is the best choice to power next generation systems.
This manual will cover important information regarding the specifications, installation, features, and operations of
your EVGA NEX-1500 CLASSIFIED power supply.
WARNING:
This unit has no user-serviceable parts inside. Opening the casing presents a risk of electrocution and
will void the warranty. EVGA will not be responsible for any result of improper use, use for which the product was
not intended, or use inconsistent with the warranty terms (available for review at
www.evga.com/support/warranty/
) and this manual (also available at
www.evga.com/support/manuals/
).

I am not sure if i shall proceed or not.

Oh no, I did not at all mean to open your power supply; just to measure the voltages on the 24 pin ATX connector that goes into your motherboard. The highest voltage that should ever be there is 24v, the potential between the -12v (blue wire) and +12v (yellow wire) rails; so there is no danger of shocking yourself there (assuming you get that ground fault fixed). But INSIDE the power supply could be voltages ranging from 325-450v, which would be very dangerous to come into contact with (now, I don't mind opening, servicing, repairing, and tweaking power supplies, but I also know what I can and cannot touch; however, I'm not asking you to do this).
The warnings on that first page were only there as a disclaimer, and also to discourage anyone from opening their power supply for "further testing."

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Techie007

Oh no, I did not at all mean to open your power supply; just to measure the voltages on the 24 pin ATX connector that goes into your motherboard. The highest voltage that should ever be there is 24v, the potential between the -12v (blue wire) and +12v (yellow wire) rails; so there is no danger of shocking yourself there (assuming you get that ground fault fixed). But INSIDE the power supply could be voltages ranging from 325-450v, which would be very dangerous to come into contact with (now, I don't mind opening, servicing, repairing, and tweaking power supplies, but I also know what I can and cannot touch; however, I'm not asking you to do this).
The warnings on that first page were only there as a disclaimer, and also to discourage anyone from opening their power supply for "further testing."

Ok , I will buy a multimeter and start testing the power supply.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by FreeElectron

Ok , I will buy a multimeter and start testing the power supply.

I thought I would add some pictures to make it a little easier, since I couldn't find any really good ones on the Internet.



Even without a multimeter, you can make sure that the power supply actually turns on. After disconnecting the power supply from everything (you could even remove it from the computer to make it a little easier to work with), you'll be shorting pins 15 and 16 (a black wire and the green wire) together with a jumper wire (or a specially bent paper-clip, or if you're an electronics hobbyist you could use a <100 ohm resistor). With those two pins shorted, the fan in the power supply (and LEDs, if it has any) should turn on when you connect AC power.
When you get a multimeter, you'll need to connect the negative (black) probe to the metal case of the power supply (or to one of the PSU's black wires-the ones on the old style 4-pin IDE power connector are the easiest to work with). Then, you'll connect the positive (red) probe in sequence to a yellow wire (11.5v-12.5v), a red wire (4.8v-5.2v), and an orange wire (3.1v-3.5v). Also, the purple wire (pin 9) should always read 4.8v-5.2v, even with the jumper removed from pins 15 and 16 (this turns off the power supply).
Please be gentle and don't jamb anything into the pin sockets; jambing could enlarge the holes and make for poor connections in the future with the motherboard. I hope that these instructions were clear enough.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Techie007

I thought I would add some pictures to make it a little easier, since I couldn't find any really good ones on the Internet.



Even without a multimeter, you can make sure that the power supply actually turns on. After disconnecting the power supply from everything (you could even remove it from the computer to make it a little easier to work with), you'll be shorting pins 15 and 16 (a black wire and the green wire) together with a jumper wire (or a specially bent paper-clip, or if you're an electronics hobbyist you could use a <100 ohm resistor). With those two pins shorted, the fan in the power supply (and LEDs, if it has any) should turn on when you connect AC power.
When you get a multimeter, you'll need to connect the negative (black) probe to the metal case of the power supply (or to one of the PSU's black wires-the ones on the old style 4-pin IDE power connector are the easiest to work with). Then, you'll connect the positive (red) probe in sequence to a yellow wire (11.5v-12.5v), a red wire (4.8v-5.2v), and an orange wire (3.1v-3.5v). Also, the purple wire (pin 9) should always read 4.8v-5.2v, even with the jumper removed from pins 15 and 16 (this turns off the power supply).
Please be gentle and don't jamb anything into the pin sockets; jambing could enlarge the holes and make for poor connections in the future with the motherboard. I hope that these instructions were clear enough.

I could not use your instructions cause all the cables are black.

Any way i bought this22-Range Pocket Digital Multimeter.
Product manual
Quote:

20V dd.ddV

it has automatic range and the reading was in that mode.
Quote:

2V-20V-200V-500V....................................±1.5% of reading, ±4 in last digit

And then i tried to apply this (How To Manually Test a Power Supply With a Multimeter)
Skipped step 1 and continuing and getting those results.

using 24 pin positions.

two tests each.

1. Pin number (1) : 3.39 v : 3.40 v
2. Pin number (2) : 3.42 v : 3.42 v
3. Pin number (4) : 5.17 v : 5.17 v
4. Pin number (6) : 5.17 v : 5.17 v
5. Pin number (9) : 5.12 v : 5.12 v
6. Pin number (10) : 12.38 v : 12.38 v
7. Pin number (11) : 12.38 v : 12.38 v
8. Pin number (12) : 3.42 v : 3.42 v
9. Pin number (13) : 3.42 v : 3.42 v
10. Pin number (14) : -12.33 v : -12.33 v
11. Pin number (21) : 5.17 v : 5.17 v
12. Pin number (22) : 5.17 v : 5.17 v
13. Pin number (23) : 5.17 v : 5.17 v

then found out that those numbers are within tolerance mentioned here Power Supply Voltage Tolerances (Even by adding error possibility)

then tried to proceed to the step 13.
Quote:

Plug in your power supply, flip the switch on the back if you have one, and then turn on your computer as you normally do with the power switch on the front of the PC.

Note: Yes, you'll be running your computer with the case cover removed which is perfectly safe as long as you're careful.

Note: It's not common, but if your PC does not turn on with the cover removed, you may have to move the appropriate jumper on the motherboard to allow this. Your computer or motherboard manual should explain how to do this.

but the system still won't turn on.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by FreeElectron

Ok , I will buy a multimeter and start testing the power supply.

can you try to power on the PSU with a paper clip?
but before that unplug every power cable in the MOBO and GPU. and try that. find the right pins insert the paper clip and hit the PSU swith, make sure PSU is not Plug In into the wall outlet

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by skyn3t

can you try to power on the PSU with a paper clip?
but before that unplug every power cable in the MOBO and GPU. and try that. find the right pins insert the paper clip and hit the PSU swith, make sure PSU is not Plug In into the wall outlet

Check the post before yours

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by FreeElectron

Check the post before yours

I saw it after I posted. too bad i was looking for the right DIAG to do the paper clip trick

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by FreeElectron

I could not use your instructions cause all the cables are black...

...using 24 pin positions.

two tests each:

Pin 01: 3.39 v : 3.40 v
Pin 02: 3.42 v : 3.42 v

Pin 04: 5.17 v : 5.17 v

Pin 06: 5.17 v : 5.17 v

Pin 09: 5.12 v : 5.12 v
Pin 10: 12.38 v : 12.38 v
Pin 11: 12.38 v : 12.38 v
Pin 12: 3.42 v : 3.42 v
Pin 13: 3.42 v : 3.42 v
Pin 14: -12.33 v : -12.33 v

Pin 21: 5.17 v : 5.17 v
Pin 22: 5.17 v : 5.17 v
Pin 23: 5.17 v : 5.17 v

then found out that those numbers are within tolerance mentioned here Power Supply Voltage Tolerances (Even by adding error possibility)

then tried to proceed to the step 13.
but the system still won't turn on.

Sorry about the black cables; though I'm impressed that you worked around these problems and actually got the test done!

Results of the test? The power supply seems to be in working order, although I don't like the fact that all the voltages are slightly high (I had a computer that the voltages were too high, and it was randomly resetting itself when the CPU and video card would simultaneously drop to a lower power state, causing the voltage to briefly spike even higher). So the hope is that the voltages come down a little under load! However, your PSU powers on, and the voltages are within the limits, so the problem is with the motherboard.
First, I would check the motherboard's CMOS battery (have the computer off for this test). Connect the negative probe of your multimeter to bare metal on your computer's case. Touch the positive probe on the top of the coin-cell battery on the motherboard. All the motherboard batteries I've come across are 3v. If that measures OK, I would unplug the computer and then reduce it to barebones: No memory, no add-in cards (video cards, sound cards, etc.) and disconnect all HDDs and disc drives from the motherboard (you can leave them connected to the power supply). Make sure that nothing is plugged in the back of the computer (no USB, LAN, monitor, etc.). Plug the AC into the power supply and try to turn the computer on again. If nothing happens, unplug it and wait 15 seconds. Plug it back in and note what LEDs are lit on the motherboard. Press the power button again, and note if there is any change with the LEDs on the motherboard. Is there any error code visible on the little 7-segment displays?
One more test with the PSU: (again, unplug and wait 15 seconds, then plug it back in) Assuming that the your meter has somewhat slender probes, connect the negative probe to bare metal on your computer case. Find pin 9 (purple, er, black

) on the backside of the 24-pin connector (leave it connected to the motherboard), and push the wire to one corner of its "square" and gently insert the positive probe of your meter in the opposite side of the "square" of pin 9 (if the meter says 0v, either you're on the wrong pin, or the probe isn't inserted far enough). You should get a reading of 5v (just like to did in your previous test); now, try pressing the power button on your computer while reading the voltage. It should remain steady at 5v. If this test is passed and the (now barebones) computer still fails to turn on, I'm sorry to inform you that the motherboard seems to be non-functional.
I don't know if the ground fault has anything to do with this, but proper grounding is imperative with computers (as I mentioned in my first post, stray current coming into the I/O ports can fry a motherboard). The manual for your motherboard (thanks for the link) even mentions this.
Where you live, what is your AC "mains" voltage, 120v or 240v?

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Techie007

Sorry about the black cables; though I'm impressed that you worked around these problems and actually got the test done!

Results of the test? The power supply seems to be in working order, although I don't like the fact that all the voltages are slightly high (I had a computer that the voltages were too high, and it was randomly resetting itself when the CPU and video card would simultaneously drop to a lower power state, causing the voltage to briefly spike even higher). So the hope is that the voltages come down a little under load! However, your PSU powers on, and the voltages are within the limits, so the problem is with the motherboard.
First, I would check the motherboard's CMOS battery (have the computer off for this test). Connect the negative probe of your multimeter to bare metal on your computer's case. Touch the positive probe on the top of the coin-cell battery on the motherboard. All the motherboard batteries I've come across are 3v. If that measures OK, I would unplug the computer and then reduce it to barebones: No memory, no add-in cards (video cards, sound cards, etc.) and disconnect all HDDs and disc drives from the motherboard (you can leave them connected to the power supply). Make sure that nothing is plugged in the back of the computer (no USB, LAN, monitor, etc.). Plug the AC into the power supply and try to turn the computer on again. If nothing happens, unplug it and wait 15 seconds. Plug it back in and note what LEDs are lit on the motherboard. Press the power button again, and note if there is any change with the LEDs on the motherboard. Is there any error code visible on the little 7-segment displays?
One more test with the PSU: (again, unplug and wait 15 seconds, then plug it back in) Assuming that the your meter has somewhat slender probes, connect the negative probe to bare metal on your computer case. Find pin 9 (purple, er, black

) on the backside of the 24-pin connector (leave it connected to the motherboard), and push the wire to one corner of its "square" and gently insert the positive probe of your meter in the opposite side of the "square" of pin 9 (if the meter says 0v, either you're on the wrong pin, or the probe isn't inserted far enough). You should get a reading of 5v (just like to did in your previous test); now, try pressing the power button on your computer while reading the voltage. It should remain steady at 5v. If this test is passed and the (now barebones) computer still fails to turn on, I'm sorry to inform you that the motherboard seems to be non-functional.
I don't know if the ground fault has anything to do with this, but proper grounding is imperative with computers (as I mentioned in my first post, stray current coming into the I/O ports can fry a motherboard). The manual for your motherboard (thanks for the link) even mentions this.
Where you live, what is your AC "mains" voltage, 120v or 240v?

According to this Voltage Valet C-F
Quote:

Egypt B GUB 2 220 50

Those are pictures of the wall outlet and the extensions that i am using in the new apartment.


Wall outlet


Power supply cable end


Power supply end of the convertor


The other end of the convertor first side


The same end but the second side

Those are all the details regarding this matter.
Can you please recommend a way to solve this issue.
Also please refer a detailed method on how to test the motherboard (Its hard to test with big text blocks)

Finally your efforts are greatly appreciated.

 

I can see why you have a ground fault-there is no ground connection because the wall outlet is two-prong! As far as that goes, I don't know what to advise, since I am not familiar with other countries' wiring conventions. I mean, I know how to install a ground rod, wire a breakout box, and how to add a ground line to house wiring to upgrade an ungrounded circuit here in the US; but we've also got 3-prong wall-outlets (just like the 3-prong plug that comes from your computer) to connect the ground line to. So how is your computer monitor (display) powered? Are the computer and monitor(s) going to a power-strip (or whatever you call them in Egypt), or are you using multiple adapters?
Computers have to be grounded; the shock you are getting is due to (in my un-humble opinion) absolutely stupid power supply design conventions. Inside practically ALL computer power supplies, they foolishly connect small capacitors (probably for high frequency noise filtering) from AC-hot<->AC-ground (naughty naughty), and another one from AC-ground<->AC-neutral (OK). That means that if AC-ground is left floating (as in your setup), the case of your computer will float to 1/2 of AC potential, 110v in your case-plenty enough to give a shock and possibly damage a motherboard. If they would simply change the connections on that first capacitor to AC-hot<->AC-neutral, that problem would be solved (the computer would still need grounded, but not so badly), and the filtering would be just as good. Enough of my ranting...

Since it looks like you are wanting my previous text converted to small steps, I'll post again with the converted instructions. However, it may be a waste of time-the power supply tests OK, which places the blame on the motherboard (not good).

 

I am assuming that the computer is unplugged from the wall, that the case is opened, and that everything is connected as usual. I am also assuming that the power supply has been tested and passed the tests (it has), and that you have tested the power button on your computer and ensured that it is connected to the right place (you have, additionally, you have a power button built onto the motherboard).

1: Put your multimeter in the 20vdc scale.

2: Connect the negative (black) probe of your multimeter to bare metal on your computer's case.

3: Touch the positive (red) probe of your multimeter to the top of the coin-cell battery on your motherboard. This is the big (nearly 1 inch in diameter), flat, round shiny thing on the motherboard. Normally, it will have symbols engraved on it, like "3V" and "+".

4: The meter should read 3v. If it reads lower than 2.5v, the battery probably needs replaced.

**********

I'm assuming that the battery already read 3v, or that you replaced it and it now reads 3v and the computer still does not work.

5: Now, we will reduce the computer to bare-bones. Remove any add-in cards (video cards, sound cards, etc).

6: Remove all the memory, so that all the memory slots are empty.

7: Disconnect from the motherboard any data cables going to disk (and disc) drives.

8: Unplug all external connections to the computer (USB, LAN, monitor, etc).

9: At this point, I'm assuming that the power supply is still connected to everything except the video cards. Plug the computer back in to the wall-outlet (AC power).

10: Press the power button on the computer. At the very least, the fans should turn on and you should hear and HDDs spin up. If this happens, turn off the power and put one memory module back into the computer and try again. If it still works, put one video card back into the computer and try again. Keep connecting more components (undoing what you did in steps 7-10) until you find the problematic one.

**********

From here, I'm assuming that when you pressed the power button, nothing happened.

11: If the computer is plugged in, unplug it and wait 15 seconds, and then plug it back in.

12: Are any LEDs lit on the motherboard? Watch them and press the power button again. Was there any change? Any error code being displayed on the little 7-segment display on the motherboard?

13: Unplug the computer and wait 15 seconds, and then plug it back in.

14: I'm assuming that the negative probe of your multimeter is still connected to bare metal on your computer's case. If not, reconnect it.

15: Find pin 9 on the 24-pin power connector that goes to your motherboard. Normally, it is the purple wire. If your wires are not color coded, you'll have to count pins (make sure that you account for the orientation of the connector, which should remain plugged into the motherboard, facing away from you).

16: Nudge the wire for pin 9 toward one of its corners. I'm assuming that your multimeter has slender probes.

17: Gently insert the positive probe of your multimeter into the square slot for pin 9 (insert it into the space you made when you nudged the wire toward one corner).

18: The meter should read 5v. If it is reading 0, either you're on the wrong pin, or you probably haven't inserted the probe far enough (be gentle here).

19: Keep reading the voltage, and press the power button on the computer. The voltage should remain at 5v.

20: If these tests pass and the computer still won't turn on, the motherboard is probably done and needs replaced.

I hope that was clear enough.
As far as the ground issue, you should probably ask around and see if anyone knows about "electrical grounding" in your area. It does need resolved; as I've said multiple times, if the motherboard is fried, this grounding issue may be responsible.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Techie007

I can see why you have a ground fault-there is no ground connection because the wall outlet is two-prong! As far as that goes, I don't know what to advise, since I am not familiar with other countries' wiring conventions. I mean, I know how to install a ground rod, wire a breakout box, and how to add a ground line to house wiring to upgrade an ungrounded circuit here in the US; but we've also got 3-prong wall-outlets (just like the 3-prong plug that comes from your computer) to connect the ground line to. So how is your computer monitor (display) powered? Are the computer and monitor(s) going to a power-strip (or whatever you call them in Egypt), or are you using multiple adapters?

If that is a power-strip
then,
I am using a power strip for all the peripherals (Monitor , keyboard , + any other non power demanding appliances) currently only the monitor and keyboard are connected.
and I am using the other wall outlet with a custom high powered extension cable to connect the power supply as the power supply's cable is short (I did not have that extension before moving here but i do not think that it is the problem as the convertor itself does not have the third prong)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Techie007

Computers have to be grounded; the shock you are getting is due to (in my un-humble opinion) absolutely stupid power supply design conventions. Inside practically ALL computer power supplies, they foolishly connect small capacitors (probably for high frequency noise filtering) from AC-hot<->AC-ground (naughty naughty), and another one from AC-ground<->AC-neutral (OK). That means that if AC-ground is left floating (as in your setup), the case of your computer will float to 1/2 of AC potential, 110v in your case-plenty enough to give a shock and possibly damage a motherboard. If they would simply change the connections on that first capacitor to AC-hot<->AC-neutral, that problem would be solved (the computer would still need grounded, but not so badly), and the filtering would be just as good. Enough of my ranting...

Since it looks like you are wanting my previous text converted to small steps, I'll post again with the converted instructions. However, it may be a waste of time-the power supply tests OK, which places the blame on the motherboard (not good).

I do not understand why did not this problem arise before (6 months) maybe it was building up...
I might go the old apartment and check to see if the wall outlet were different.

Any way i will try to find how people solve those issues around here.

I will also do the motherboard test when i have some time and post the results.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Techie007

I am assuming that the computer is unplugged from the wall, that the case is opened, and that everything is connected as usual. I am also assuming that the power supply has been tested and passed the tests (it has), and that you have tested the power button on your computer and ensured that it is connected to the right place (you have, additionally, you have a power button built onto the motherboard).

1: Put your multimeter in the 20vdc scale.

2: Connect the negative (black) probe of your multimeter to bare metal on your computer's case.

3: Touch the positive (red) probe of your multimeter to the top of the coin-cell battery on your motherboard. This is the big (nearly 1 inch in diameter), flat, round shiny thing on the motherboard. Normally, it will have symbols engraved on it, like "3V" and "+".

4: The meter should read 3v. If it reads lower than 2.5v, the battery probably needs replaced.

**********

I'm assuming that the battery already read 3v, or that you replaced it and it now reads 3v and the computer still does not work.

5: Now, we will reduce the computer to bare-bones. Remove any add-in cards (video cards, sound cards, etc).

6: Remove all the memory, so that all the memory slots are empty.

7: Disconnect from the motherboard any data cables going to disk (and disc) drives.

8: Unplug all external connections to the computer (USB, LAN, monitor, etc).

9: At this point, I'm assuming that the power supply is still connected to everything except the video cards. Plug the computer back in to the wall-outlet (AC power).

10: Press the power button on the computer. At the very least, the fans should turn on and you should hear and HDDs spin up. If this happens, turn off the power and put one memory module back into the computer and try again. If it still works, put one video card back into the computer and try again. Keep connecting more components (undoing what you did in steps 7-10) until you find the problematic one.

**********

From here, I'm assuming that when you pressed the power button, nothing happened.

11: If the computer is plugged in, unplug it and wait 15 seconds, and then plug it back in.

12: Are any LEDs lit on the motherboard? Watch them and press the power button again. Was there any change? Any error code being displayed on the little 7-segment display on the motherboard?

13: Unplug the computer and wait 15 seconds, and then plug it back in.

14: I'm assuming that the negative probe of your multimeter is still connected to bare metal on your computer's case. If not, reconnect it.

15: Find pin 9 on the 24-pin power connector that goes to your motherboard. Normally, it is the purple wire. If your wires are not color coded, you'll have to count pins (make sure that you account for the orientation of the connector, which should remain plugged into the motherboard, facing away from you).

16: Nudge the wire for pin 9 toward one of its corners. I'm assuming that your multimeter has slender probes.

17: Gently insert the positive probe of your multimeter into the square slot for pin 9 (insert it into the space you made when you nudged the wire toward one corner).

18: The meter should read 5v. If it is reading 0, either you're on the wrong pin, or you probably haven't inserted the probe far enough (be gentle here).

19: Keep reading the voltage, and press the power button on the computer. The voltage should remain at 5v.

20: If these tests pass and the computer still won't turn on, the motherboard is probably done and needs replaced.

I hope that was clear enough.
As far as the ground issue, you should probably ask around and see if anyone knows about "electrical grounding" in your area. It does need resolved; as I've said multiple times, if the motherboard is fried, this grounding issue may be responsible.

As for the part where we test the motherboard's battery.
The first reading was about 3v
after that in separate times and conditions the reading change ranging form 3.33 to around 5v .

Removed
System memory removed , Graphics cards removed , SATA Cables removed)
Not removed
Case to motherboard connectors were not removed (USB, debug sound , system panel connector , ... etc) while nothing is connected to the case , CPU , and CPU Fan connector.

Any way proceeding until step (15) , I could not quite understand what to do there.

Any way.
The 24 bin connector of the power supply is a modular cable (In fact all are) the first test when i tested the power supply's volts i did so while connecting the cable to the power supply and measuring on the cable to insure that both the cable and the power supply are tested.

In that case , i Do not quite understand what do you want me to test.
I can connect the cable to the mother board and disconnect the power supply end and test the motherboard (not connected to the psu).
Or connect the cable to the psu and disconnect the motherboard and test the PSU (Already been done)
I do not know how can i test the voltage on the 9th bin (Stand by) while keeping the motherboard and the psu connected.
The multimeter has a kind of not so slender probes

.

Any way , i think it might be something caused by one of those , or a combination of them.

PSU.
CPU.
Motherboard.
Case.

similar problem (Except in my case i still did not give the mobo to the reseller yet and that it never turned on after that)
ASUS Rampage IV Extreme Won't Turn On

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by FreeElectron

As for the part where we test the motherboard's battery.
The first reading was about 3v
after that in separate times and conditions the reading change ranging form 3.33 to around 5v...

That should be consistently reading 3v. Make sure that the fluctuations are not due to a poor connection with your negative (black) meter probe. That said, 3v is the correct voltage, and I am assuming that the fluctuations are just errors in the reading because it would be impossible for a good battery (it did read 3v) to fluctuate like that.

Quote:

Originally Posted by FreeElectron

Anyway, proceeding until step 15, I could not quite understand what to do there...

...I do not know how I can test the voltage on the 9th pin (standby) while keeping the motherboard and the PSU connected.
The multimeter has a kind of not so slender probes.

This is what I meant to do:

You can count 9 pins down from the top (the orange wires in the picture above) or you can count 4 pins from the bottom, to get to pin 9 (purple, standby 5v). The purpose of this test is to verify that the power supply can supply 5v under load (the motherboard) and that the motherboard is not shorted out. If there isn't 5v on that pin, the motherboard cannot turn on the power supply.

Quote:

Originally Posted by FreeElectron

Anyway, I think it might be something caused by one of those, or a combination of them.

PSU.
CPU.
Motherboard.
Case.

PSU: We're trying to clear this (prove it innocent / functional)
CPU: If you have thermal compound on hand (or you're desperate) you can remove the CPU's heatsink and re-seat the CPU (remove it from its socket, and then put it back in). Rarely (but it does happen) a bad connection here will cause the computer to ignore the power button.
Motherboard: From the results so far, it looks like this is likely the problem
Case: Unlikely

Hope that helps! I'm still thinking about your setup AC power-wise (and yes, that's what I meant by "power-strip").

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by FreeElectron

...I am using a power strip for all the peripherals (Monitor , keyboard , + any other non power demanding appliances) currently only the monitor and keyboard are connected.
and I am using the other wall outlet with a custom high powered extension cable to connect the power supply as the power supply's cable is short (I did not have that extension before moving here but i do not think that it is the problem as the convertor itself does not have the third prong)...

I think it is very important that the computer be plugged into the same power-strip that's its peripherals (connected devices: monitors, printers, etc.) are powered by-especially since you're using a converter that isn't being grounded (I don't know if that's normal or not; but I do know it's bad). Basically, grounded devices connected to the computer (many computer monitors have grounded power supplies) need to have their grounds connected together, and connected to earth. Now, I'm not 100% certain that this issue has been caused by a lack of ground; but motherboards are delicate devices that are sensitive to static electricity, and having the motherboard encased in 60-120 VAC (my guess as to what the voltage is) certainly is not a good idea.

Quote:

Originally Posted by FreeElectron

I do not understand why did not this problem arise before (6 months) maybe it was building up...
I might go the old apartment and check to see if the wall outlet were different.

Anyway I will try to find how people solve those issues around here...

It could have just been a small random (normally non-damaging) voltage spike that zapped the motherboard because of the ungrounded case- that's just a speculation, though.

I don't know how much it will help, but can you show a picture of your power-strip? (I'm trying to see if it has a ground prong on it, I didn't see any on your wall-outlet).